Salt-Cured Egg Yolks
I have a bunch of prep work to do for tomorrow’s Mother’s Day Of Eating, but I really wanted to try this prep that I lifted from Hank at Hunter Angler Gardener Cook, who in turn lifted it from Jeffery Weiss’ Charcutería: The Soul Of Spain.
It involves curing egg yolks in kosher salt for 7 days, then hanging them in cheese cloth for another 7, until they have the consistency of pecorino cheese. Think bottarga, but with chicken eggs instead of fish eggs. We got some nice farm-fresh eggs with deep yellow yolks at the farmers market this morning, so I had to try it.
Mothers Day of Eating
Today was about making all of Kel’s favorite foods.
Breakfast: buttermilk biscuits & sausage gravy
Lunch: charcuterie board
- serrano ham, hot coppa
- gorgonzola picante, Bucheron aged goat cheese, Guilloteau St. Angel, aged cheddar
- strawberries, raspberries
- fresh baguette
Dinner: ragú bolognese over 7-yolk fettucine
Matt killing it.
Everybody loves Burrata, the pillowy dumpling of the Pasta Filata world, and Food Republic promises to teach you how to make it at home; their version comes with a twist though, using Ricotta as part of the filling. Via Food Republic:
David Arias, Executive Chef at NYC Italian bistro Abboccato Italian Kitchen, has one of those great coming-up stories that starts at the dishwashing sink at 14 years old and stops at every kitchen position along the way before ending up mastering Italian cuisine with Todd English. Suffice it to say, Arias knows his Italian cheeses, and he learned how to make fresh burrata every day out of necessity. If you’ve never had it, it’s just heaven: soft mozzarella shreds in heavy cream stuffed into a tender mozzarella shell. Break the shell and the filling oozes out.
"The burrata we were getting from Italy started down in quality a little and was hard to get for a while, so we started making it ourselves," he says. "Traditionally, nobody puts ricotta in burrata filling. We add it because the cream in Italy has a lot more fat than the cream you get here, so by adding ricotta you get that extra creaminess."
Get the full recipe.
(photo ©2014 Food Republic)
This is my grandmom’s stockpot and we use it every time we make homemade stock for things like ramen and pho. Typically when we make ramen stock we do a mixture of chicken and pork bones, only the pork bones are roasted beforehand, and the scent of those roasted bones instantly brings me back to her small (but larger than our current) kitchen, even though the only time she would ever make pork was New Year’s Day and I hated it because it was meant to be served with sauerkraut.
More importantly, I can’t think of one time I ever saw her make stock in it. Usually she used it to make mashed potatoes and I don’t make them ever.
Tonight’s pan pizza
- grilled chicken
- chorizo navarre (from Olympic Provisions, thanks Mary Ellen!)
- roasted sweet potato
- crushed red pepper
24 hour room-temp ferment. I wish I had put more sweet potato on this- the bites with the salt from the chorizo and the sweet from the potato were really tasty. Kel suggested maybe incorporating roasted sweet potato into the base somehow, I think it’s a cool idea.
Heady discussions about the role of the wine critic may strike many people as navel gazing. Yet one issue has bubbled up on social media and blogsrepeatedly in the last few months: Should wine critics allow their personal preferences to color their critical views? Or should they remain neutral on questions regarding a wine’s style, regardless of how they feel about it?
Source: The New York Times